Deville Went Down to Georgia - Build

Discussion in 'Big Block Cadillacs' started by nosgood, Jul 10, 2017.

  1. Darius

    Darius Well-Known Member

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    Hello Nick,

    I still love the look of your car. It just has a certain presence, a Je Ne Sais Quoi.

    A project as involved as yours can generate a great number of varied questions. How about ordering up a shop manual for a 1968 Cadillac Coupe DeVille? They are readily available on the Internet for very reasonable costs. Not only are ‘paper’ copies available for less than $23.00, CD-Rom versions can be had for less than $18.00. With a manual answers would be right at your fingertips. Take a look:

    https://www.google.com/search?sourc...95...0j0i131k1j0i10k1j0i22i30k1.0.9wFavJwuqWA

    bro. d
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2017
  2. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Hi Bro D, thank you! I appreciate the comment. I actually do have a shop manual; it has saved me many times. However, with custom applications such as this, as well as advancements in technology, I like to run things by you experts, just in case anyone has advice that may be better than that of the shop manual’s.

    -Nick
     
  3. mario

    mario Well-Known Member

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    Nick:
    When you get your tank boiled out (some radiator shops do it,) have them add in a return nipple. The heater hose can be "tee'd" in to the bottom radiator hose. There are fittings to do that. The modulator was plugged in to the back of the carb and that is the connector from the kick down switch.
    ciao,
    mario
     
  4. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Active Member

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    Ditto:
    Exactly how mine is connected.
     
  5. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Active Member

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    Nick
    I Screenshot_20171127-075552.png found this. It might work for both of us. I dont want to tap my block and i dont have room in my Trans Am to cut my lower rad. Hose. Drill a hole in the upper side of the rad. For return?
    What do you think?
     
  6. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Hi guys, thanks for the comments.

    Mario, I called around and there's a shop in the next town over that will be able to do it. Problem solved! It took me a while to find the correct T fitting, but I found an aluminum one on ebay that will work nicely. Should be here in a few days. I think I have an extra port on my carburetor, I'll have to look in the morning. I also found the diagram for the trans kickdown, I just need to go under the dash and locate it.

    PJ, those seem like they'd work just fine! Luckily, I have space for T fitting. Are you sure you don't have space to cut out a section of the hose and just replace it with a T fitting? If not, the only thing I can see being an issue is getting metal shavings in your radiator from drilling the hole. You'd just have to flush it I suppose. I found an all aluminum radiator on radiatorexpress.com that has the bung for a return line already fitted. Maybe I'll splurge and pick one of those up next year.

    -Nick
     
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  7. mario

    mario Well-Known Member

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    Nick, pj:
    I had the radiator shop solder in the return hose fitting when the recored my radiator in my 56gmc. My 49 has the fitting tee in the lower radiator hose. You can't even see the split. I'll see if I can find the link. I understand that the late model vette fuel filter has a fuel return line, saving the fitting expense in the tank.
    ciao,
    mario

    Auto zone has these: KAT'S Heaters Heater Hose Quick Connector, in different sizes. Link won't post, sorry
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2017
  8. Darius

    Darius Well-Known Member

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    Not Autozone but it'll will work well enough: https://www.bing.com/search?q=KAT'S...smsn=1&refig=70185540b76e4672e93cb079d06bd00d
     
  9. mario

    mario Well-Known Member

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  10. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Active Member

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    Thanks guys. I need heat, my win-chill gets foggy in the cold mornings.
    The lower rad hose tee could work if i can mount it close to the rad. Like almost touching. Great idea. I woundnt have to drill. That will acually save me money too.
    :D
     
  11. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    UPDATE: I pulled the top end last night. Took a little less than two hours, including draining all the coolant out of the system. I’m searching for a good machine shop right now, because unfortunately my regular is booked up through the new year. 27BA865E-F84C-4D83-839B-45EBDE99EE1E.jpeg

    Meanwhile, I’m going to call Holley and make sure I can tap this hole right here, so that I can attach a nitrous micro switch to use as my WOT kickdown. I saw this on another Caddy forum, and I thought it was pretty good. The kit is from edelbrock.
    2163E8D1-128D-44E7-ADE3-D5FAE5E9EF7B.jpeg 55771A10-93AE-4E7B-A861-29B3178A00D1.jpeg

    I also got my trans cooler lines all hooked up. I went with one of Dave’s recommendations, and it was perfect. -6 line all the way from the trans to the radiator. At the radiator end I used a 5/16 -20 inverted flare to -6 an fitting.
    D24803BA-A5C1-4E42-869C-45183562EBB5.jpeg 24163932-5DFE-4508-8CF9-9DB318963156.jpeg

    Also, PJ, check this out. It’s like the piece that Mario had links to. I got this one from eBay, and it’s nice. All aluminum and exactly as advertised. 1 1/2” with a 5/8” tee. Works great, and doesn’t take up much room at all.
    BFFD862F-EEE8-4F1B-8F93-840BF3378DCE.jpeg
     
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  12. mario

    mario Well-Known Member

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    Great nick, glad it worked out. If you need more space cut a half round notch in each hose where it lines up with the 5/8 tee and you can fit the two hose ends together. If your end cuts are straight, you won't be able to tell that there are two hoses, except for the two clamps.
    cioa,
    mario
     
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  13. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Active Member

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    Awesome!! Thats great. Looks better than i thought too. I will do that.
    Thanks Mario for the option of cutting the hose. That will help me.
    Ill tru to remember to take some pics Monday. Its really tight in the Trans Am. I have a ?drag link? In my way. Think thats what its called. Im at work so cant get pics.

    Btw Nick. You have a great build. I enjoy keeping up with your project. Thanks for sharing.
     
  14. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    thanks PJ I appreciate it!
     
  15. dave brode

    dave brode Well-Known Member

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    I'm not bashing, but you asked > Where should I route this lower heater core hose? I believe it went to a cylinder head originally. Can anyone verify that?

    Since both of your hoses go the the inlet side low pressure] tank, you have very little pressure differential, you may not get much flow through the heater core. If you are unhappy with the heater output, you could do what was on earlier cars. They had an outlet below the dist, under the alt. The boss is there, and taps easily to 1/2" or 3/4" NPT. Cast taps nicely. You can buy barbed heater hose fittings at most parts stores.
    Dave
     
  16. Andy V

    Andy V Active Member

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    what are you planning for engine work, maybe I missed it ?
     
  17. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    I have a plug stripped out in my passenger side head, I just need to drill it out. While one head was off, I figured why not remove both of them and switch to ARP head studs.

    -Nick
     

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