Deville Went Down to Georgia - Build

Discussion in 'Big Block Cadillacs' started by nosgood, Jul 10, 2017.

  1. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    So I went to fill up the engine with coolant today, and noticed one of my plugs on the back of passenger cylinder head was seeping a little water. I realized that I hadn’t remembered to put any sealant on that plug, so I went to remove it and man, it is STUCK. I tried a bigger wrench, and it completely rounded out. I then tried vice grips, as tight as I could possibly get them, and over the last hour I have wrecked the threads. At this point, I’m not sure what to do. Please help.
     
  2. Darius

    Darius Well-Known Member

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    Are we talking about spark plugs here?? Water weeping from a spark plug hole? I'm not sure what is being said. Sorry.

    d
     
  3. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Nope, should have been more clear. Talking about a plug like this
     

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  4. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Here’s a picture of the culprit. I tried drilling a hole through the side so that I may slip a screw driver it and try and hammer it out, but the screw driver snapped.

    image.jpg
     
  5. 8ad-f85

    8ad-f85 Well-Known Member

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    Oh, man...
    I'd use a bit of propane heat and spray lube.
    Seems like the aluminum galled badly.
    If you can get the two pieces to heat at different rates, you'll draw some lube in.
    I hate risking leaks on first time runs with aluminum heads enough that I never do them in the vehicle, test stand only and never with actual coolant.
    I know that doesn't help now, but some heads seem to need more arm than others as they warm up.
    Leaks may appear, even if you kind of blast them in.
     
  6. 8ad-f85

    8ad-f85 Well-Known Member

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    Is that the plug it came with?
    Forgive me for asking but from what I could see of the pic it looks like a straight plug and I'd suspect the head to be tapered pipe threads.
    Hoping I am incorrect about that.
     
  7. gary kosier

    gary kosier Member

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    I'd recommend you find something solid that will screw into the fitting to keep from collapsing it. Then get a pipe wrench set to get a grip o the outside of that stuck fitting. put some heat on the cylinder head to expand it
    an put the pipe wrench on it and hit the handle with a big hammer to shock it loose. If it moves keep it moving. JWID

    Gary Kosier
     
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  8. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    It occurred to me that the threads may be different pitch. The plug is supposed to be a 1/2” npt thread, and I just assumed the head had the same. The worst thing is, I only tightened this damn thing a 1/4 turn past hand tight. I may pull the head and try and drill it out. There’s just not enough space to really do anything while it’s in the car.
     
  9. 8ad-f85

    8ad-f85 Well-Known Member

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    If you got it in, it will come out.
    I don't get into mechanical techniques much on forums, but try what Gary wrote.
    I'd put a ton of effort there before ripping it down.
    If you have to, NBD.
    The beauty of a tapered thread is that it doesn't take much of a chase to refresh new ones .
    You could give a tap a turn easily with a crescent or box wrench from the look of the pic.
     
  10. PJ McCoy

    PJ McCoy Active Member

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    Man sorry to hear about this. What a set back. Your a cool headed giy. Youll get.
    PJ
     
  11. Andy V

    Andy V Active Member

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    going back to the trans linkage...like Mario states...the bracket will slide onto that shaft with the flats lined up. You missing a flat washer and nut to hold it on tight. Then the other end, has a link rod that is adjustable, that will connect to your mechanism on the bottom of the steering column just outside the fire wall. The adjustment is done with a set screw...allows you to move the rod so that the indicators on the column line up, and make sure you can reach 1st / low gear and back to park fully.

    one other question...with that single plane, and the hood insulation....can you shut the hood ? Unless you have a really deep drop base aircleaner, I can't see how it would close.

    I'd sorta like to go back to a flat hood someday...so if you figured out a way I'd be interested. I have the same intake, carb etc
     
  12. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Unfortunately, I think I've done all I can to that plug. It's a goner. I'm out of town for the next week, so when I get back I'm yanking the head and I will keep marching. My major hurdle at this point is getting the brakes finished up.

    Andy, I've got a 1.75" drop base on my air cleaner, and my hood shut fine with what I assume wasn't much more than a 1/4" of clearance. I haven't tried to shut it yet with the insulation on it, but I imagine that it will touch. Shouldn't be any problem right? And I'll take another look at that linkage; thanks for the knowledge.

    -Nick
     
  13. dave brode

    dave brode Well-Known Member

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  14. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    Thanks Dave, this was the info I was looking for. Those fittings from Summit & Jegs; that’s what will replace the fittings already in my case? I ask because mine seem to be 5/8” female, and those fittings online were listed as 1/4”. I assume the threads in the case itself are 1/4”?

    The next thing is, what do I use to connect to my radiator?

    -Nick
     
  15. Andy V

    Andy V Active Member

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    if you leave those brass flare fittings in the trans, then the same fitting goes to the radiator as the trans, inverted flare on the ends of the hose.
    You can have lines made up at any hydraulic shop.

    if you do the adapters like Dave linked with straight thread, and run -6AN braided...you'd need to adapt to the inverted flare in the radiator as well.
     
  16. nosgood

    nosgood Member

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    So say I say I leave those fitting in the case, will something like this work?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100701/10002/-1

    I’m just not sure of the difference between inverted flare and straight thread. Dave’s links are listed as 1/4” -18 straight thread. The link I posted is a 5/8” -18 inverted flare thread. Are they the same?

    It would be great if i could put these in the case and in the radiator and just run braided stainless steel line betweeen.

    I’m pretty sure the fittings in the trans are 5/8”. Anyone know what the radiator fitting size is?

    -Nick
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2017 at 11:33 AM
  17. 8ad-f85

    8ad-f85 Well-Known Member

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    Get a couple of short sections of brake line at the auto parts store.
    Some used 3/8 tubing and most 5/16".
     
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  18. Andy V

    Andy V Active Member

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    if you want to use the -6An type line, you will need to remove the brass fitting in the case now. And replace with a fitting like Dave mentioned. He was pointing out that the threads in the case are straight, not NPT (tapered).
    once you put an adapter in the case to get to -6AN....you can make your own lines up then using female fittings on that end. For the radiator end...you'll have to either use a male inverted flare fitting on the end of the braided line...or use an adapter of some sort to thread male inv. flare into the rad. I don't know the size of the inv flare off hand but 5/16 sounds right.

    so the ones that thread into the case, are straight thread. Thats where you have to be careful, if you put NPT in it can split the aluminum case in that area.
     
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  19. dave brode

    dave brode Well-Known Member

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    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100701/10002/-1

    That fitting [your link] fits an inverted flare on the end that you see. Inverted flare is like a fuel line on a stock pump, or a quadrajet. Or, a brake line. The 5/8 -18 is the thread on the inverted end. It will not work. The fittings in the links that I posted will work.

    Look at this fitting. It has STRAIGHT pipe thread on one end. It is like 1/4" pipe thread except the threads are straight, not tapered like normal pipe thread.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220027/overview/

    This shows AN and pipe thread

    https://images.search.yahoo.com/ima...&sign=11k9k0j0v&.crumb=96Cu0e624Bs&fr=yfp-t-s
     
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